Half the kitchen outlets dead? Breaker that won't reset? Old knob-and-tube that finally needs to go? John traces the problem, tells you what he found, quotes the fix, and gets to work. No guessing, no parts-cannon billed by the hour.
John traces the problem at a flat hourly diagnostic rate. You're not paying to watch someone shotgun replacements until the lights work.
Once the problem is identified, you get a written quote for the actual fix before the work starts. You can say yes, no, or sleep on it.
Done clean, to current code, and with the panel labeled when it's back up.
If this was an insurance or inspection issue, you get the paperwork you need to close it out.
Not automatically. It depends on what's been added since, how the splices were done, and what kind of insulation the original wire has. Cloth-jacketed two-wire is common in 1950s New Hampshire homes and is usually safe if it hasn't been damaged. Knob-and-tube is a different conversation. John walks the house, looks at the splices, and tells you what's worth doing.
Yes, all the time. John doesn't talk smack about other contractors. He just looks at what's there, tells you what needs to change, and fixes it.
Helpful but not required. If you can describe what happens, when it happens, and what's on at the time, John can usually trace it without you there. A lockbox or hidden key works for the appointment.
Aluminum branch wiring (common in homes wired between 1965 and 1973) is fine if the terminations are correct. John uses COPALUM or AlumiConn pigtails at every device. That's the methodology insurance companies and Underwriters Laboratories actually accept. Just smearing antioxidant paste on existing terminations is not a real fix.
Free written estimates. Most replies come back the same day, next morning at the latest.